Japan for coffee addicts

July 2018: The great news is that in the past two years, coffee culture has continued to spread in Japan! But be prepared to DIY if travelling beyond the major cities. See below for updates.


When it comes to finding a decent cup of coffee in Japan, as the saying goes, there’s some good news and some bad news.

The good is you can get amazing coffee big cities, like Tokyo and Kyoto.

The bad – you will usually have to wait til at least 10 am (often midday or even later) for your first hit.

For the caffeine-sensitive coffee lovers like me, that second revelation posed a bit of a challenge during my recent trip to Japan. I’m more a savour-a-strong-espresso before breakfast kind of gal, rather than drink it all day and keep it coming!

Like coffee, breakfast is a late affair. Beyond the 24 hour diners (where you order and pay for your meal at a vending machine before being seated), or rice balls from convenience stores –  finding that first meal of the day can be challenge for travellers.

I didn’t risk the beverages in either of those early morning options, nor the machines that vend a can of hot or cold coffee. Though did resort to using some supermarket bought pour over ground coffee bags a couple of times.

But there were some standout coffee shops, though they had little or no breakfast options.



Frankie is right at home in hipster Shimokitazawa. I spied it on the first night and thought it had a very familiar look. Straight out of Melbourne like the owner, this café not only makes exceptional coffee but also an assortment of Australian cakes and slices to go with your flat white. Coffee is Allpress (and they also sell Aeropress’s if you want a lightweight travelling companion).

Opens most days at 10 am (just look for the queue of Australasians waiting to get in). Check the website, as their hours have recently changed.

400Yen for your long black or flat white.

155-0031 Setagaya-ku, Tokyo Kitazawa 2-chome, 12-15




Shimokitazawa is a great suburb for coffee lovers, at least for the ones who don’t need a hit early in the day. All theseplaces looked amazing, just maddening closed when I needed a hit. If staying in this neighbourhood again, I’d pick up an Aeropress from Frankie and stock up on freshly ground beans around the corner at Maldive


Sarutahiko in Ebisu is unique in its offerings. This tiny café has great music, outstanding coffee and a (single) breakfast option. But add free Wi-Fi (another rarity in this technologically advanced country) and wait for it – 7.30 am opening (weekdays, 10 am weekends) and its worth booking your next Airbnb in this area.


240 yen for excellent house brew (hot or cold), 450 for most other coffees.

Great news: They’ve rolled out more locations across Tokyo.

Tip: The granola breakfast set with their signature drip/cold brew coffee is a great way to start the day. (They’ll let you sub hot chocolate is coffee isn’t your thing).



100% Arabica has “good coffee” written all over it and it didn’t disappoint. This light and airy coffee haven with the ubiquitous blonde wood fit out off the main drag in the historic Higashiyama area, was a mere two blocks away from where I stayed. Best of all they open at 8am. The perfect time for a caffeine hit. Though not so good for my tea-drinking companion as this place serves coffee and nothing else.

The Tokyo-born owner loves the stuff so much that he bought a coffee plantation in Hawaii. 100% Arabica has three locations in Kyoto, and a handful more sprinkled around the world.

87 Hoshinochō, Higashiyama-ku, Kyōto-shi, Kyōto-fu 605-0853



Sentido: Another gift from the caffeine god, was stumbling upon this small cafe. Not only does it open at a reasonable hour but, unlike 100% Arabica, they have a small breakfast menu (and serve other beverages). From memory there were only a couple of options, toasted banana bread with the world’s tiniest but well formed cube of butter, or a small bowl of cereal with fruit and yoghurt.

The espresso was perfect and the toasted banana bread made a nice snack to go with it (thank goodness for the rice balls!)

While searching Sentido’s address I came across a blog post that mentioned the owner learned to make coffee while living in Melbourne. No wonder it was so good!

1F Nippo Karasuma Bldg, 445 Sasaya-cho, Kyoto, Japan, 604-8187

Open: 7:30am – 7:00pm Monday – Friday, 8:00am – 7:00pm Saturday (closed Sunday)


A note of Japanese addresses: the non-consecutive street numbers can be very confusing, that’s because they’re numbered in the order they’re built. A “pocket Wi-Fi” (a phone sized mobile modem) and Google maps, will save you hours of confusion when hunting for your first fix of the day.


July 2018

How lucky am I to go back to Japan for a second visit in two years? Forewarned, I travelled with my trusty Aeropress and my favourite blend from Caffe Bianchi.

But did I really need to bring the hardware?

Version 2


This trip took me to Osaka, Yoshino, Kyoto, Kanazawa and Tokyo. Coffee-wise it was a mixed bag.

In the big cities we stayed in hotels. All provided some kind of drinkable coffee. This varied from drip coffee bags in the room, or self-service espresso at the breakfast buffet or in the lobby.

While Kanazawa appears to have the beginnings of a coffee culture, our Airbnb (one of the few still operating since the law changed in Japan in June 2018) came equiped with a hand coffee grinder and drip coffee.



Staying in a traditional ryokan in Yoshino is a totally kettle of fish. While the food was lavish (oh my goodness, that’s another post entirely) and there was a wide variety of green teas on offer, coffee was entirely DIY. Fortunately, a flask of hot water was provided with the teas each morning.

In Yoshino at the height of summer there were very few tourists, and only a small number of restaurants open for lunch. Nothing appears to open for dinner, not even for a nightcap.

If you’re heading to a small town, or staying in a traditional guesthouse, bring your own coffee!

Vending machine coffee

It’s hot and sticky in most parts of Japan from May through to September, so I got the hankering for an iced coffee. While I chickened out of the vending machine option last visit, I fully embraced the odd cold, black coffee from a vending machine. The caffeine content seemed light on but was full of flavour.

The trick is finding the right can: hot/cold, black/white, sugar/unsweetened.

There are a number of reviews online to help you find the right brew in a can for you, or just be brave and choose the one that you think is right. After all it’s only a dollar or two.


Yutenji, Tokyo

The suburb we called home for almost a week has a number of coffee shops, most opening at a reasonable hour. As I was equiped with both the Aeropress and a free espresso machine in the foyer of our hotel, outsourcing wasn’t entirely necessary.


Rough Laugh Coffee

We tried a couple of the local coffee spots but this one a clear standout.

Open early (9am) most mornings, the single handed barista not only cranks out a fine brew and plays great music but he also makes a mean bagel.


153-0052, 2 Chome-15-5 Yutenji, Meguro
Open 9 am til late most days except Tuesday.







Machu Picchu: 10 tips for a trip of a lifetime

For many, Machu Picchu is synonymous with “bucket list”. I’ve never been anywhere that has elicited such envy on social media. To be honest, I visited this awe inspiring historical site almost by accident.

Experiencing the Incan citadel was certainly a highlight of my Sth American odyssey. Here are my tips to make the most of this once in a lifetime experience.

  1. Book your ticket in advance. The UNESCO listed site is limited to 2,500 visitors a day and tickets are not available at the entrance
  1. Bring your passport. This is also needed for entry to the site. Since you have it with you, don’t forget to get the Machu Picchu stamp that is available just inside the gates.
  1. Get a guide. This truly enhances the experience. You’ll shortchange yourself if you see the site without learning the history. They also know how best to avoid the crowds and get the postcard perfect shot.
  1. There’s no shame in catching the bus. The four day trek to Machu Picchu is a rite of passage for many. It’s a tough walk, especially on the second day, topped off by freezing nights under canvas and even colder showers. Sacred Valley hotels can book a day guide, for a full day walk along the last section of the track. Or just catch the train to Aguas Calientes and jump on the bus the scours the hillside to the site’s entry.
  1. Miss the morning crowds queuing for the pre-dawn bus and go in the afternoon. Most tourists don’t realize that seeing the sunrise from the Sun Gate is a logistical impossibility, unless you’re trekking (and are a fast walker). For everyone else, even though the site opens at 6am (often later by the time the staff arrive and open the gates), the photo opportunity is well and truly over by the time you’ve completed the 90 minute ascent. The afternoon is usually the quietest time to visit and your best chance to take photos unmarred by crowds.
Where are all the people? The best time to visit Machu Picchu is actually in the afternoon

Where are all the people? The best time to visit Machu Picchu is actually in the afternoon

  1. Altitude is rarely a problem. While Cusco, the gateway to the region, is 3,400 m above sea level Machu Picchu is a mere 2,400 m. Altitude sickness is unpredictable and indiscriminant but it’s the flight into Cusco that’s a greater culprit.
  1. Take a sunhat rather than beanie. Even in the heart of winter, while the thermometer dips below zero overnight it’s often in the high 20s c during the day. There’s no shade at Machu Picchu and panting, overheated tourists kitted out in thermals is a common site.
  1. Drink water, but not too much. Speaking of overheating you’ll need to bring your own water, as there are no shops inside the historic site. Nor are there toilets so it’s a delicate balance. While people often plan an all day visit for their once in a lifetime Machu Picchu experience, for most mortals this will necessitate trekking back to the entry gates at least once. Not an easy feat, battling against the flow of tourists on often narrow tracks.
  1. Enjoy the region. Peru blew me away. From Lima to Lake Titicaca it’s full of wonderful sights, tastes and experiences. Cusco, Sacred Valley and Aguas Calientes (the closest town to Machu Picchu) are all worth exploring. Spending a few days enjoying the landscape between Cusco and the Mountain is also a great way to minimize the risk of altitude sickness.
  1. Do it now. With a new airport slated for Sacred Valley in the next couple of years, allowing fly in and out visits in a day, tourist numbers are expected to rise to 20 million by 2020. This is unsustainable and far exceeds UNESCO guidelines. According to local guides, if you want to visit Machu Picchu and actually walk through the site– do it before 2018.


Six of the best: Chiang Mai

Snuggled within the ancient walls of the old city, it’s hard to believe that Chiang Mai is the second largest metropolis in Thailand. In the far north of the country, near Laos and Myanmar borders, Chiang Mai is a cool oasis in summer but even in the humid, rainy season offers a relaxing holiday destination.

Beyond the elephant camps, Hill Tribe villages and docile tigers, you can spend a month in this city without getting bored. Here are six of my best Chiang Mai experiences.

1. Noodles: There’s so much more to this food group than Pad Thai. You’ll find the regional specialty Khao Soi (curry noodles) on the menu from breakfast through to dinner. I’m of fan of ‘big noodles’ of wide, luscious rice noodles ‘massaged’ with soy and other sauces, served with stir fried tofu and vegetables.


2. Markets: Chiang Mai’s markets are legendary. From the local produce markets that pop up everywhere to the massive Warorot markets, locals and tourists alike love them. Without a doubt, the sprawling Sunday Walking Market on Ratchadamnon Road is the best – great food, interesting wares and lots of happy Thai people enjoying their weekend ritual.

3. Wander through the back sois (lanes). Off the major streets lie dozens of meandering laneways. Observe local life and stop for a drink or meal at one of the many unnassuming cafes (like Natures Way and Peppermint café, open all day with free wife, fresh food and friendly service).

4. Hire a driver. We were driven in a spotless modern taxi for the day for a mere 1500 baht (~ Au$50, shared between three). If you want to do something other than Hill Tribes, elephants, rafting or zip lining – do your own research first and make a wish list. Our driver was a little resistant to our plans at first (so remember to negotiate itinerary as well as price before sealing the deal) but we managed to get him off the track for a swim in a waterfall and lunch at a health spa out of the city.


5. Follow the monks. Take an early morning walk to watch the sunrise glint off the wats, monks walking the streets to collect offerings or to just sit in the grounds of a temple and listen to the chanting. My favourite pre-breakfast walks includes the river, being the only farang at the San Pakoy market and catching the sunrise at Wat Chedi Luang.


6. Relax. As a massage slut from way back, I was in my element sampling the full spectrum from foot massages at the walking markets, to cheapies and luxurious spas.


Coffee – an espresso to rival any in Melbourne.

Massage – go for broke and book a package, you won’t regret it.

Map/tips – you’ll never get bored with a Nancy Chandler map (but remember to check the website for updates)

Vegan/vegetarian visiting Chiang Mai – read my top tips.



The Highline: the happiest mile in NYC

The number one recommendation from almost everyone I know who’d visited New York in the last couple of years was a unanimous, “walk the High Line”.


The most loved mile of NYC, has only been open for four years. It didn’t take much for me to join the legion of fans. The High Line had me at my first glance in Gansevoort Street.


It’s hard to explain what makes a chunk of elevated rail line exciting. It’s a park, art gallery, café and general hangout. What’s more there are extraordinary views of the Hudson River, iconic architecture and one of the most dynamic city skylines in the world.


I managed to walk five lengths of the High Line while in NYC and caught its many moods including a sunny Sunday stroll, midweek dash uptown and a perfect summer’s evening. Each time the park was populated by locals, visitors, date night couples, singles escaping their pokey rooms grabbing a bench and watching videos on their phone (and free wife). There were families, tourists and downtown diehards who rarely roam more than 10 blocks from home.


What I loved the most: wild flowers, Chelsea Thicket, blossoms scenting the night, art everywhere and even the furniture. But equally it was what neighboured the park: glimpsing lives lived cheek and jowl, night clubs, restaurants, homes, graffiti, street scenes, the Empire State building but most of all the modern architecture. The curves of HL23, the Standard Hotel straddling the path like an open book and Frank Geary’s IAC (especially for the golden hour at night when it’s see through) are the new landmarks in the city.








Every visit deepened my enjoyment of the High Line but our last one topped the lot. It was a stunning, June night, sated on great food and a proseco or two at a neighbourhood bar (West Village bless your organic cotton socks – restaurants and bars to die for AND an apartment a mere two blocks from the High Line!). Up the Ganesvoort stairs, even Hoboken and Queens looked magical across the Hudson, dressed in glittering lights. The warm air was perfumed by flowers in full bloom, music pulsed from exclusive penthouse clubs and the pop up eateries buzzed. I swear every single person was grinning ear to ear, with the full on sensory emersion.


The High Line is barely more than a mile but it has to be the happiest mile in the city. It certainly gladdened my heart. Sure it doesn’t have the achingly wide spaces of Central Park but I’d take the grit of downtown over the exclusivity of Fifth Avenue any day.










Brooklyn food and fleas

Not the jumping, biting kind.

Just across the bridge from Manhattan, Brooklyn has some of the best vintage and food markets in the state.

First stop, the Saturday flea at Fort Greene.

Some vegan ‘noodles’ as a palate cleanser.



Followed by mahi-mahi tacos, that green apple salsa was a revelation.













And everyone should have a rhubarb and Thai basil soda, at least once in their life (twice even better!)






Then we hopped the subway to Wiilliamsburg, to catch Smorgasburg before it closed.

A market snuggled next to the Williamsburg bridge with million dollar views.


For an ice cream.


Mr Berrington could fool an omni – blackberry/chocolate a stellar combo on a hot day.

Don’t forget to check out the undercover weekend market on 7th Street on your way back to the subway. Full of new and used clothes and art, plus the cutest little toilet totem in town.


Simple San Francisco style


You can tell a lot about a place by its food. Move away from the heart-clogging diners around Union Square and travel beyond the reaches of the cable car for a taste of the real Frisco.

Heading to San Francisco for my first visit, hippies, Haight Asbury and the Golden Gate Bridge are three images that immediately sprung to mind. For many tourists it’s updated with the tackiness of Fisherman’s Wharf, aggressive panhandlers downtown and of course, the interminable wait to ride on the cable cars.

I wanted to get back to the hippy roots of the city but in the opposite direction of Haight. Greens, an iconic vegetarian restaurant that opened in the ‘70s, called my name. Getting there turned out to be half the fun.

Skipping the hour queue for the Powell-Mason cable car, we jumped on the Market St tram all the way to Fisherman’s Wharf. I love the old streetcars from around the world that whiz down the 6 mile route from the Wharf to the Castro, and travelled it most days we were in town.


Once we headed beyond the Embarcadero, directions to the Fort Mason restaurant were sketchy. While the map, on paper at least, showed a clear route down Bay Street, on the ground it was illusive. Instead the footpath lured us over the hill to the marina, through the small national park. The ascent was bolstered by spectacular views of the bay and the Marina on the other side welcomed us. The sprawling Green Meadows Park felt a million miles away from the homeless in the city centre.


With literally five minutes to spare before the end of lunch service we finally arrived at Greens, relieved to be welcomed to a table. The stress evaporated as we sat in the light-filled converted warehouse, watching yachts bob outside in front of the iconic bridge. The view is complemented by a spacious interior design using mostly reclaimed timber, high ceilings and large artworks.


The food, crafted from organically grown produce was some of the freshest I’ve ever tasted (and I’m both a gardener and organic market shopper at home).  The menu has echoes of its 70’s wholefood roots but has swapped stodge for simplicity. The baby potatoes and corn in my grilled brochette is probably the most flavorsome I’ve ever eaten complementing, rather than competing with, the chimichurri sauce and spicy Mexican slaw.


The ambience at Greens enhanced the experienced. While only a couple of diners remained so late in the service the staff didn’t hurry any of us, as if understanding the importance of atmosphere on good digestion.


Calmed and sated by our lunch, we ambled back through the sculptures of Green Meadow Park and took in the views of Alcatraz, Fisherman’s wharf and the bridge once more. Without the pressure of time and unknown geography and buoyed by an organic beer with lunch, we could relax into the beauty of the national park.


Greens is worth an excursion, so close to the hackneyed San Francisco tourist sights but a million miles away from the urban tension. Choose it for the sheer simple flavours of the produce, inspiring natural design of the restaurant and the iconic views. But also for the path less travelled, which was as refreshing as the meal itself.

How to get to Greens

The walk from Fisherman’s wharf should take about 30 minutes, when you know where you’re going. Click the link for directions.